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Amir Mehdi
Amir Mehdi (sometimes spelled Amir Mahdi) (1913-1999) was a Pakistani mountaineer known for being part of the Austrian team which managed the 1st ever successful ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953 and K2 in 1954 with an Italian expedition. He, along with the Italian mountaineer, Walter Bonatti, are also known for having survived a night at the highest open bivouac (8,100m) on K2 in 1954.〔http://www.nationalgeographic.it/viaggi-avventure/2011/09/20/news/bonatti_e_il_k2_la_vera_storia-521046/〕 He is also referred as Hunza Tiger. ==Nanga Parbat (1953)== In July 1953 a German-Austrian team went for expedition to Nanga Parbat. The expedition was organized by the half-brother of Willy Merkl, Karl Herrligkoffer from Munich, while the expedition leader was Peter Aschenbrenner from Innsbruck, who had participated in the 1932 and 1934 attempts. Hermann Buhl one of team member made it to the top and became first person to reach the summit. He was assisted by two high altitude porters from Hunza, Amir Mehdi and Haji Baig. They later helped Buhl during his descent, when he was caught by frost bite and lost his crampon.〔http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/nanga-parbat-rakhiot-flank-east-ridge-1953〕
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